Anyone can glue together a plastic model. But not everyone knows how to build and finish a model to get realistic results. Below is a series of steps to building a model. If you follow these steps and use the techniques which are linked to them, you too can build realistic and convincing aircraft models.
- Open the clear plastic sprue and clean up the parts with a nail file and sandpaper. If there are major imperfections in the canopy or other parts, sand them with fine sandpaper to reshape them and then polish them with toothpaste. Dip them in the Modeler's Secret and set them aside on a paper towel to dry completely. Place a cup over them to keep dust from settling on them.
- Remove the interior parts from the sprues and clean them up in preparation for painting (including the fuselage halves).
- Prime the interior parts with enamel primer.
- Paint the interior parts and assemble them. At this point I will often apply thin strips of masking tape to the seat to simulate seat belts. This is also a good time to paint the interiors of the wheel wells. If you plan on using clear decal sheet for your canopy frames, paint them with your interior color as well.
- Assemble the fuselage halves (don't forget that there may be other parts that need to be painted prior to this step - refer to the assembly instructions).
- If the lower wing set is a one-piece assembly, glue this to the fuselage first and then glue the wing tops on using masking tape to pull the wings to the correct dihedral and close any gaps at the wing roots. If the wings are applied to the fuselage, consider gluing them on later, depending on the exterior paint scheme. The same can be said for the horizontal stabilizers.
- Fill and sand any gaps where parts mate. Rescribe any panel lines obliterated by the sanding (this can be done easily by dragging the first several teeth of a hobby saw over the lines).
- Paint the interiors of wheel wells on other cavities which are molded into the model.
- Mask any cavities (cockpit, wheel wells, the interior of engine nacelles) in the surface.
- Give the major assemblies a overall prime with enamel primer.
- Topcoat the major assemblies allowing time for each color to cure before masking for the next. If you are interested in simulating faded paint, try this technique. In between colors is a good time to paint smaller parts in preparation for assembling them. If you are using decal paper to create your canopy frames, remember to paint that at the same time, using the same colors.
- Once the overall colors are applied, remove any masking in preparation for clear coating and decaling. At this point, I usually assemble the smaller parts such as landing gear and propellers and clear-coat them along with the model. Use Modeler's Secret to create a good glossy clear-coat over the whole model.
- Apply the decals.
- Apply another coat of Modeler's Secret over the decals in preparation for the panel line wash.
- Apply an enamel wash to accent surface detail.
- Overcoat the entire model with a clear flat finish, preferably water-based so as not to disturb the enamel wash. At this point I usually apply weathering using ground chalk pastels and overcoat that weathering with the clear flat coat as well.
- Cut the decal sheet into strips and apply to simulate canopy frames, using decal setting solution to get them to 'lay down' on the canopies.
- Glue the canopy on using white glue or cyanoacrylate (only use CA glue of you have sealed clear parts with Modeler's Secret or they will frost).
- Install antenna (aerial) wiring using stretched sprue to simulate the wire. Paint the stretched sprue to match the model.
- Admire, photograph and display your completed model in a dust-free environment for years of enjoyment!
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